Saturday, February 27, 2010
Highlights of my MOCA trip...
First off, Dan Flavin. It's kinda funny because Flavin used to be my case in point for some contemporary art that's, how shall I put it, Insincere. I would, in particular, point to one of his single light bank installations and call B.S. The thing is though, I stumbled upon a collection of his work in an old church in Bridgehampton that is now a permanent collection of his pieces and I was blown away. I was actually able to understand what it is he's doing, or at least, get a glimpse of it, in my own way, and boy did it make a difference.
Click here. All that being said, I'm still not a fan of some of his smaller, simpler, installations. To me, they're still just lightbulbs.
I really like the idea behind this one, using one's ceiling as an extralong movie or long exposure painting. Great.
Robert Irwin. This guy is fantastic. His pieces distort the mind and create this blurry/ soft focus unreality. They have to be experienced, but you can catch a glimpse in the photo above. It's really hard to know where one piece ends and the next starts. Somehow this feeling gets into your body, and everything in the world begins to merge. Can you see the light glare on the upper right of the circle? It brings another dimension, no? Now factor in that you can't possibly experience this piece from my picture. Or maybe, you can have an experience, but definitely not seeing it in person...
Sadly, I don't know who did this. But so what. I loved looking at it and figuring it out. Clearly the glass was brought in whole, and then broken on site. There were still miniscule little slivers on the floor. It's site specific nature, (Although now that I say it, is it site specific?) I was going to say, it's site specific nature brings up many questions. But theoretically, it could be done anywhere, however, it can't truly be moved and still carry the original power of the truth from impact. Well anyway, it does a good job of communicating the energy of the impact, and the energy inherent in the glass which is then displayed in it's shatter.
On the bottom, you can see there is one piece sticking out from the "frame" created by the top pane of glass. Did that happen naturally or was it pulled out? If so, why? What is the effect?
Edward Ruscha
Chocolate Room
1970/2004
For its debut at the 35th Venice Biennale in Italy, Chocolate Room originally consisted of 360 shingle-like sheets of paper silk-screened with chocolate and applied to the interior walls of the gallery space. Edward Ruscha was just starting to work with organic materials in his prints, using such unconventional substances as blood, gunpowder, or cherry juice instead of traditional inks. During the summer of 1970, curator Henry Hopkins invited Ruscha and several other artists to make a work for the American Pavilion as part of a survey of American printmaking with an on-site workshop. Many declined the invitation in protest against the Vietnam War; Ruscha intended to do the same, but eventually reconsidered. When Chocolate Room went on view in Venice, protesters etched anti-war slogans into the rich brown surfaces of Chocolate Room, leaving it to stand as a spontaneous anti-war monument, which Ruscha ultimately considered more effective than non-participation in the Biennale. In the summer heat, the heady smell of chocolate was particularly overwhelming and attracted a swarm of Venetian ants, which ate away at the work. MOCA acquired Chocolate Room in 2003 and silk-screens new chocolate panels each time it is installed.
So, more questions... How does one acquire something that doesn't exist? If every time it is displayed, it is re-silk-screened, then is it the same piece? What's to stop someone else from doing the same thing. Can they call it an Ed Ruscha piece? Does every museum in the world own this piece the moment they silk-screen and hang the pieces?
Friday, February 26, 2010
Qui sait deguster, ne boit plus jamais de vin, mais goute des secrets.
Another awesome Learn About Wine event... Burgundy vs. California
CHARDONNAY:
Paul Pernot, Bienvenues Batard- Montrachet, Grand Cru, 2000
Many people thought this was corked, I wasn't sure. I should've spoken up earlier, but Pride, being much stinkier, out weighed my thoughts on the matter and I decided to keep quiet rather than look silly. It was definitely stinky, and funky, but maybe not corked...
Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, 2002
Gorgeous wine, beautiful balance, Mineral. Graceful. Beautiful.
Domaine Leflaive, "Les Pucelles", Puligny-Montrachet, 2004
My favorite. Beautiful sesame and petroleum, maybe a bit heavy handed, but fine by me, I just wanted to sit with it.
Leroy, "Les Blanches", Chablis,Grand Cru, 2000
A treat, my first Leroy Chablis. At first I felt it was lacking the acidity and minerality I look for, but then bang, it grabs you in the finish. Well Done. The group's choice for favorite.
VS
Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard, Russian River, 2002
Sweet fruit and power, but I felt the acidity and body were not quite enmeshed. Undoubtedly beautiful chard though. People's favorite of the Cali Chards
Bonaccorsi, Santa Rita Hills, 2002
After the white burgs, these cali chards all seemed to suffer from lack of acidity, but the beautiful fruit characteristics saved the day.
Brewer-Clifton, Rancho Santa Rosa, Chardonnay, 2003
Once again, would've liked a little more acidity, but the apricot and stewed fruit jumping through on this BC Chard were wild, almost as if the notes of a Sauternes fermented dry.
Stony Hill, Napa Valley, 1995
My pick of the Cali chards, a great segue from the Burgs. Crisp lively acidity, with some muscle to back it up. Full finish. A champ. And so interesting to see a 15 year old Cali Chard hold it's own.
PINOT NOIR:
Denis Mortet - "Les Champeaux" Gevrey Chambertin, 1er Cru, 1997
Pow. My #1 of the Red Burgs. REALLY funky when we first popped it, but turned into something special with some cola notes and abundant mature fruit. Beautifully balanced, with a silky texture.
Leroy, Rouge, Burgundy, 1999
Youthful. Nothing stunning, but for $30, a great deal. I'd still go with that 02 Gevrey from Drouhin I had the other night though.
Dominique Laurent, Beaune, "Le Clos DesMouches" , 1er Cru, 2005
An interesting look into an '05 Burg. My friend and tablemate, Renee, felt it was going to sleep and I'd tend to agree with her. It'll be interesting to see where it emerges.
Comte de Vogue, Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru, 1990 (valued at $400)
Wow. Is this thing Pinot? Huge. And at 20 years of age, it doesn't seem to be showing any signs of slowing down. It's almost too big to be judged as a Pinot Noir. But sure was tasty. People's favorite, although it was close to a three way tie.
VS
Kosta Brown, Russian River, Pinot Noir 2006
The jump to Cali from Burgundy was even more marked on the reds than the whites, and with such a stellar line up, I was kind of let down. I in no way mean to put down Kosta Browne Pinots, because they're awesome and the critics and the public go wild for them. For me personally, I find them a little too powerful to masquerade as pinot. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't kick one out of bed, I just don't go crazy like everybody else
Sea Smoke Cellars, Botella, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills 2003
The group's favorite of the flight. I thought it was really tasty, but..
Radio-Coteau, Alberigi Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Russian River, 2005
This was my wine, absolutely beautiful, really head and shoulders above it's peers, nobody seemed to agree with me though. Oh well.
Kistler, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2002
Some people's favorite, but I found it flat. These Cali pinots after a few years of age remind me of retired musclebuilders, walking the Florida beach in a speedo and a permatan.
My spellbinding photography of a Shiraz Ian shared with us after the event. Yarra Yering. Small producer, really great funky stuff. Not over ripe, some great complexity going on, really a stand out. Parker has this to say:
This artisinal winery produces what must be the most idiosyncratic/eccentric wines of Australia. They can be absolutely spectacular, or they can be distressingly irregular, one never knows which until the cork is pulled. I suspect if the late recluse of Chateauneuf du Pape, Jacques Reynaud, were reincarnated in Australia, he might be making the wines at this backwater address.
Thanks Ian!
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Harder Tasting at Campanille, and then some Burgundy
One of my favorite tastings, from one of my favorite books, Diane Harder. As it was last year, a great collection of super top notch producers, as well as some newer, lesser knowns. My tried and true favorite well knowns were there, Peter Michael, Kosta Browne, Sean Thackrey, Araujo, Soter, Hirsch, Luc Morlet. I got there a bit late, and had my friend, Elissa with me, so we leisurely strolled around instead of my usual manic dashing around. It meant I didn't get to taste at as many tables as I normally would have, but I'm beginning to slow it down and spend a little more time smelling the roses as it were. I did get a chance to catch onto a couple of new (to me) producers.
It feels like I'm cheating a bit with my selection of "new" guys, because my two, are already working with some of the biggest names out there, and are stepping out with new side projects. But there's a reason these guys are where they are, and their juice tells that story...
First, Shane.
Shane Finley is associate winemaker at Kosta Browne. Not too shabby. He's worked with Wells, at Copain, here in Cali, Torbreck in Australia, Gaillard in the Rhone, Paul Hobbs and then Kosta Browne. It's like a fucking who's who of the wine world. But I didn't know any of this when I tasted his wines, and I almost skipped his Syrah, because I wanted to keep it light before going big, but I'm glad I didn't. His "unknown", won't be. And neither will he.
Second, and not in quality, but merely, because George Skorka hadn't made his way up to me yet, to weigh in and point me in the right direction. George, a legend in the LA Wine World, is one of my favorite people to grab at a tasting and ask what's good. He's always got a colorful story, a joke, and a damn good selection to follow it up. Cheers to the George Skorka's of this world!
Dutifully following George's Advice, I headed over to Matt Taylor's table where I met his brother Sean, a super cool guy, as passionate about these wines as one could hope, pouring the Taylor Cellars 06 and 07. Sean, who clearly loves his gig, had a great time with us, regaling us with stories about the label graphics and the Michaud vineyard, of which I'm already a fan. Michael Michaud does some stunners, and I had the pleasure of checking through a vertical not too long ago.
Yet I digress, Matt, "Winegrower" at Araujo, has, as his side project, this beautiful Taylor Cellars. Sean tasted us through the 06 and the 07, although he was all business about not letting us taste the 06 until it had time to open. He let us taste the 07, which was a stunner, but wouldn't let us have the 06. He even suggested we come back later. I Love This Guy! He did let us try the 06 eventually, probably cause we spent so much time bullshitting with him, and even, at the end of the tasting, gave me a half full bottle of the 06, but one of the waiters grabbed it for the winemaker's dinner while my back was turned. Dammit! I'm going to do the unfashionable thing here and say I preferred the 07 to the 06, BUT, if I were able to have sat here with the 06, I might have changed my mind. Either way, wildly different wines, but as expected due to the vintages. Keep these guys on your radar.
Had the pleasure of meeting Diane Harder for the first time too, she's really doing a first rate job of keeping the best and finding the new ones. Cheers Diane!
To wrap it all up, some Burgundy when I got home. Came across an 02 Gevrey Chambertin from Drouhin at a great small shop in Larchmont, Larchmont Village Wine Spirits & Cheese for $30! Yeah, yeah, Drouhin's a big negociant, wah wah wah. Kiss my ass kids, it's a treat, and an expensive birthday treat for me being all unemployed and whatnot, so, I'm lovin' it. A little tight to start, but earthy, lovely juice. Never made it over that hump into "etherial", that special category I reserve for pinot that sneaks into my soul and does the hokey pokey while I'm not looking, but it comes right up to that "all the right things in all the right places" line, and is one of the better, affordable Burgs I've had in awhile. I give it a "right on!", if not a "Hell Yeah!".
Better Judgement later?
Opened a bottle of Loring 07 Keefer Ranch Chard: the Ain’t-commercially-available, but-only-cause-you-know-Brian, and-he-hooked-you-up-personally, can-you-get this-juice, bottle. Like to brag much? Well, Popped it with Erika and was, huh, perplexed and concerned. Wanted to love it, cause I appreciate Brian and his wares, but it seemed disjointed. Erika asked what I thought, and I wanted to wait for what she thought before I “Colored” her opinion. She found it sweet, and tart. I found it awkwardly broken into little pieces. It's acidity didn't seem to be lined up with or emeshed with the fruit and the finish. And that really bummed me out, because Brian has been so generous with his time, and spirit, AND the bottle was a gift for my B-Day after he’d been so cool as to take us around his place barrel tasting…
BUT, as you can already tell, this review/diatribe/long winded rant is gonna turn good, cause if I didn’t like Brian’s wine, it would’ve gone unsaid…
After it had a little time to warm and get some air, all of these “disjointed pieces” began to marry. So unexpected. Everything, which started out so disparate, came into focus, and equilibrium. (And it takes time AND air, cause the re-closed bottle didn’t have the beauty of the wine sitting in the glasses)
It was kind of like one of those “Magic Pictures” from the 80’s that you’d have to stare at and purposely blur your vision until, out of nowhere, a 3D image would appear. It went from awkward to yummy. So interesting, to see everything TRUELY come into focus. I've never experienced anything like it before.
Another fun reminder of the beauty and mystery of wine, it's living qualities...
(Day 4) In true Loring style, this bad girl chard is still going strong. How does this guy do it? What is his magic? Gravity-defying, death-defying, Chard! Cheers, Mista' Loring!
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Just Because
I don't know why I rail against these Shepard Fairey posters so hard, I like them, I think they look cool... I think what bothers me is not the posters themselves, but people's willingness to jump behind whatever they portray because of surface values... Not to Imply that everybody with one of his posters has no underlying grasp of the person or cause they promote, but anyway, just had to be said.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Loring Wine Company and Native 9
My girlfriend Erika persuaded me to do something fun for my birthday. Being low on funds, and not a birthday oriented person to begin with, I kinda figured I'd just skip out on the whole celebration thing. In fact, I think when originally asked what my b-day plans were, I said, I was thinking about getting a haircut.
Instead though, persuaded by my lovely lady, I got in touch with two of my favorite winemakers up in Santa Barbara County and did a little tasting. In the past, I've done the whole ATTACK method of wine tasting and bombed through tasting room after tasting room trying to fit in as much tasting as possible. This time though, I took my time, and only hit one winery a day, can you believe it? Just one!
It was great though, I really got the time to hang out with these guys, shoot the shit, and get a real feeling for what they are doing beyond the usual "Attention to detail, respect for the land" story every tasting room employee reads off of a glossy, laminated placard kept behind the bar. I got to hang with the artists themselves and sample from the barrels. We got to see where they've been and hear where they're going, and both teams have some really great treats lined up for the future...
It's funny because I really dig on what both Loring and Native 9 are doing, yet they're quite possibly complete polar opposites in methodology; yet here's the coolest part, Brian makes a Rancho Ontiveros Pinot so you can compare apples to apples, even though Brian's apple doesn't quite behave according to Newtonian physics!
Anyhow, we started off by meeting Brian Loring at his brand spanking new facility in Lompoc. Brian is an ex-computer programing guru, who has an utterly pristine laboratory type space, with a winemaker's dream for a barrel room. He has just one row of barrels on the floor so he can access any barrel at anytime, without the slightest effort. (Most barrel rooms have barrels stacked anywhere from four to eight rows high, requiring, climbing, forklifts, acrobatics, and one hell of a game of Tetris.) For a visual comparison, look at Brian's Barrels up top, compared to Paul and James's down on the bottom. Brian's got an envious floor plan, it's like the equivalent of an NYC girl with a walk in closet (sorry to emasculate you, Brian)
Brian is a maverick, he's had a vision and stuck to it. He used synthetic corks back in '03, (when I first came across his juice at Jeanne's Wainscott Wines in the Hamptons) and then switched to screwcap in 04. I remember pushing his Pinot to Hamptonites who would scratch their heads at the screw caps, but once they'd actually tasted the wines, (and Jeanne had no problem cracking a bottle to shut someone up), they'd be sold. His stuff is big, bold, juicy, drip down your chin, JUICE. It makes no apologies, and neither does Brian. He tasted us on a Chardonnay he makes, (Ha Ha, not yet available to the general public! Jealous?) and laughingly mused, I know everybody's all steel tanked, chablis style, crisp clean, unoaked, trending these days, but I like my big, luscious, oaked, round ones, so that's what I make. And he makes what he loves, and it's obvious. He is a guy having too much fun, and loving it all the way. We spent hours with him wandering through the barrels as he'd say, "huh, I wanna see where the Shea is right now. Let's check in on the Durrel 'cause I've got one new oak and one one year barrel. I wanna see how that Keefer is doing..." Brian does 14 different vineyards of Pinot Noir, yet he doesn't grow any, it's all purchased fruit from some of the best sources around, including: Rancho Ontiveros, where we get Native 9. Brian has been blowing up lately, getting great scores (If that kind of thing matters to you) which, personally, it doesn't to me, but I know it translates to sales for hardworking winemakers like Brian, who deserve it. Wanna buy his wine? Go here
Day 2, Native 9! I've gotta cool down about these guys, or people are gonna think I'm getting kickbacks. But fuck it, I'm going on record, James Ontiveros and Paul Wilkins are making the Grand Cru of Santa Maria. Paul Wilkins, formerly of Alban Vineyards met us at the facility, (On his birthday, I found out later, Happy Birthday Paul!, us Aquarians are a special lot) and took me to the Vineyard where we met James Ontiveros. We got to hang out on the plot, look around, and talk shop. I won't bore you with all the clonal variety (8, count 'em 8) soil type, terroir and the like, but I will share a little tidbit I find interesting. I won't even begin to pretend I know the first thing about farming, but I have spent just enough time walking rows and pulling cane to know a quick cheaters note for looking at a vineyard, and in the rows at Rancho Ontiveros, they've got daffodills, dandelions, and more than a few other varieties of harmless weeds peeking up, as well as an owl house or two looming above to help uninvasively deal with rodents. What all this points towards, and we spoke of, is that these guys are going to go for certified organic. Not 'cause it's cool, not 'cause it sells, but because they think it's the right thing to do, for the land, and for the wine. What those little harmless weeds'll tell you, is that, the farmers aren't throwing down all sorts of vile "Round up" style weed killer, and they're not showering their grapes with ugly stuff that drips down and kills off everything under it. I'm even tempted to get into all the geeky talk about the rarely used 1A clone they've got on the property, but I'll leave that for another day.
Here's a shot of Paul, lovingly pulling us barrel samples to check out. A huge part of the difference between the two Wineries: Brian as a winemaker, but not farmer, has 14 different vineyards of Pinot available, and even more, of secret new projects that I may not be able to spill about yet, BUT ARE FUCKING AWESOME. Paul and James, by contrast, have, in addition to their Alta Maria project, 8 different clonal expressions, all from the same vineyard!
So with Brian, a two step walk to another barrel might represent a 500 mile departure by vineyard. With Paul and James, a different barrel might be a 5 foot departure to a different row. It's so amazing to really taste the differences taking place from clone, vineyard, barrel, vintage, and winemaker. All steps that create the finished product.
Paul is also doing a really kick ass job of Rhone varietals with the Alta Maria project, which has a stunning Pinot Noir too. His Grenache is a cool climate Grenache that has a new spin on old world grenache. It's not the overwrought syrupy style, and it brings, (as do, frankly, all his efforts) a beautiful complexity, that makes you lean into the glass to chase it. His Syrah, and this is meant in no way to be a backhanded compliment, cause I dig it, but it's gonna catch critical acclaim. It's a big, dark, beauty, with much more to give. The usual group of critics, if they get their hands on it, will love it for all the silly reasons, but it's got so much more to love. I don't know how it'll be released yet, but if you're not already on it, you should get yourselves on Alta Maria and Native 9's lists now. Do it. Do it now, or be thirsty later.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
The Manhattan Bridge
This is the Manhattan Bridge, as seen from Brooklyn, in August.
It is one of the mountains in my dreams.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
"LA Street Food Fest attracts thousands", Says LA Times. Yet I got hosed, is that fair?
Took the Metro to Downtown LA today to check out the LA Street Food Fest. Another good time like The First 7th Annual Grilled Cheese Invitational I thought, but alas no, they maxed out and turned away the crowds that had waited in line for hours. So, instead, I wandered up towards Little Tokyo and got sidetracked by the latest exhibit at MOCA a collection from the first 30 years. It was actually, really great. I say that, because in the past I've been disappointed by MOCA, but this time, it was a really great exhibition. I even took the shuttle over to the Geffin for the second part of the exhibit, and then went into Little Tokyo for some street food, so kiss my ass, stupid LA Street Food Fest....
And here are my picks from my MOCA visit: click Here!
Pinot Pinot Pinot
It's been crazy. Pinot Days, Pinot Fest, Stars of Santa Barbara, Burgundy SF, Burgundy LA... I don't know if I can handle anymore Pinot. Ok, that's a lie, I can handle more Pinot. First the Airplane Hanger of Pinot at Pinot Days, then helping to coordinate Pinot Fest in Pasadena, hitting up Red Carpet's Top 100 right after it, A little tasting at the Stars of Santa Barbara with my Buddy Ben From Telluride, off to SF set up and Pour some Burgundy with my Pal Oliver, and then back down to Beverly Hills for more of the same, only to wrap it all up, same day, with a blind Cab tasting and some In-N-Out Burgers...
Brian Loring doing a winemakers dinner at Noir.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Really?
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Unemployed
These three enterprising young men decided to take the matter to the streets. They walked up and down Hollywood Blvd, holding a sign reading Unemployed College Grads looking for work. Honk for Resumes. They'd been at it all week and hadn't gotten many promising leads, BUT, they were enjoying themselves, and got some girl's numbers...
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