Thursday, January 28, 2010

Thank you for your teaching. Goodbye J.D. Salinger.



There are a few people, a very few, that I have held in my mind, and heart, as those whose death would affect me profoundly. There are even fewer who would cause me to double check that I'd meant "affect", and not "effect". Normally, I'd offer creative and anatomically challenging suggestions for where they could stick their challenges to my choice of words. For this particular gentleman, however, I feel I oughta be concise, he'd prefer it that way. And yes, oughta, and concise, fit just fine in the same sentence.

This man, this Author, is one of the rare people, who, upon their death, I've worried I wouldn't know what I'd do, or how I'd handle it; one of those people, for whom the loss would seem impossible to me, because it would reflect my own mortality. These people are inseparable from my very own life, and what it means to be alive. How can one live without their most very crucial organs?

My own father's passing, as fond as I was of him, and who I did get to know and like, was met well, accepted, and understood. There are a few people, however, whose death will shake me. And I already know who they are. These people will go, possibly gently, but viscerally, into the good night. Fortunately, those whose death (and I say death, cause passing always makes me think of farting) Those whose death will be met with hardship by me, even though I say fortunately, are those who have most prepared me for their death, precisely because they are the ones who have helped me to understand, and form, the LIFE, and the person I have become. It's a strange dichotomy, but one that that is so very real to me, and exact. So exact, I feel, that I'm afraid I've put too fine a point on it, for nothing could be so rude as to call them out by name, but to those people, who know who they are, I won't miss you, because I AM you. I am the person I am, because of your love and dedication, and your inspiration is like a new life in my own, that helps me push forward in ways I didn't know by myself.

Anyhow, (This is getting embarrassingly personal) moving on, since I've already got a lot on my plate today, this man, J.D. Salinger, is one of these people. I've often thought of this day, and knew it would come.

I suppose I should begin by admitting that I didn't particularly care for The Catcher in the Rye when I first read it. (Where the fuck is the underline button on blogspot?) If ever there were an Author whose books deserved to be underlined it'd be Salinger. Perhaps though, he'd laugh, and love that I don't underline his titles. In fact, I know he would. This is a man I can speak for on the day of his death. And I really can, because I knew him that well. I did. No, I never met the man, but there's no writer ever, seclusion or not, who shared so much of himself with me. And this particular man would feel it to be the highest honor NOT to have his book underlined. And this is no false humility mind you, but rather a man with the greatest respect for the truth, with an invisible capital T.

Back when I was writing, and actually did any, I would read lesser authors and feel great. I'd say to myself, if this crap can get published, then I sure as shit can, I've got it covered. But not Jerry. I'd read his work, and it would break my heart; I'd never come near the truth this guy seemed to simply drip off his pen, I couldn't begin to get near him- but I never hated him for it. I loved him for it, and understood, it was a trade off. It was a secret trade we'd made, I'd learn about me, in exchange for ever thinking I could write about a world I knew so little of. I'd let go, and have him remind me of what I'd forgotten. Perhaps that sounds too intimate, and maybe you don't get it, or maybe you do, and maybe you've found the artists that can do that for you. I've met many who can capture my imagination, but few that could help me create it. Mr J.D. Salinger was one of these people.

However, in the end, there's only one man who can speak for Salinger, and that's Salinger:

I think a part of my mind has been vulgarly laying for this next bit. I haven't thought of it in years and years.
One late afternoon, at that faintly soupy quarter of an hour in New York when the street lights have just been turned on and the parking lights of cars are just getting turned on - some on, some still off- I was playing curb marbles with a boy named Ira Yankauer, on the farther side of the side street just opposite the canvas canopy of our apartment house. I was eight. I was using Seymour's technique, or trying to - his side flick, his way of widely curving his marble at the other guy's - and I was losing steadily. Steadily but painlessly. For it was the time of day when New York City boys are much like Tiffin, Ohio, boys who hear a distant train whistle just as the last cow is being driven into the barn. At that magic quarter hour, if you lose marbles, you lose just marbles. Ira, too, I think, was properly time-suspended, and if so, all he could have been winning was marbles. Out of this quietness, and entirely in key with it, Seymour called to me. It came as a pleasant shock that there was a third person in the universe, and to this feeling was added the justness of its being Seymour. I turned around, totally, and I suspect Ira must have, too. The bulby bright lights had just gone on under the canopy of our house. Seymour was standing on the curb edge before it, facing us, balanced on his arches, his hands in the slash pockets of his sheep-lined coat. With the canopy lights behind him, his face was shadowed, dimmed out. He was ten. From the way he was balanced on the curb edge, from the position of his hands, from - well, the quantity x itself, I knew as well then as I know now that he was immensely conscious himself of the magic hour of the day. 'Could you try not aiming so much?' he asked me, still standing there. 'If you hit him when you aim, it'll just be luck.' He was speaking, communicating, and yet not breaking the spell. I then broke it. Quite deliberately. 'How can it be luck if I aim?' I said back to him, not loud (despite the italics) but with rather more irritation in my voice than I was actually feeling. He didn't say anything for a moment but simply stood balanced on the curb, looking at me, I knew imperfectly, with love. 'Because it will be,' he said. 'You'll be glad if you hit his marble - Ira's marble - won't you? Won't you be glad? And if you're glad when you hit somebody's marble, then you sort of secretly didn't expect too much to do it. So there'd have to be some luck in it, there'd have to be slightly quite a lot of accident in it.' He stepped down off the curb, his hands still in the slash pockets of his coat, and came over to us. But a thinking Seymour didn't cross a twilit street quickly, or surely didn't seem to. In that light, he came toward us much like a sailboat. Pride, on the other hand, is one of the fastest-moving things in this world, and before he got within five feet of us, I said hurriedly to Ira, 'It's getting dark anyway,' effectively breaking up the game.
This last little pentimento, or whatever it is, has started me sweating literally from head to foot. I want a cigarette, but my pack is empty, and I don't feel up to leaving this chair. Oh, God, what a noble profession this is. How well do I know the reader? How much can I tell him without unnecessarily embarrassing either of us? I can tell him this: A place has been prepared for each of us in his own mind. Until a minute ago, I'd seen mine four times during my life. This is the fifth time. I'm going to stretch out on the floor for a half hour or so. I beg you to excuse me.
This sounds to me very suspiciously like a playbill note, but after the last, theatrical paragraph, I feel I have it coming to me. The time is three hours later. I fell asleep on the floor. (I'm quite myself again, dear Baroness. Dear me, what can you have thought of me? You'll allow me, I beg of you, to ring for a rather interesting little bottle of wine. It's from my own little vineyard, and I think you might just ...) I'd like to announce - as briskly as possible - that whatever it precisely was that caused the disturbance on the page three hours ago, I was not, am not now, and never have been, the least bit intoxicated by my own powers (my own little powers, dear Baroness) of almost total recall. At the instant that I became, or made of myself, a dripping wreck, I was not strictly mindful of what Seymour was saying - or of Seymour himself, for that matter. What essentially struck me, incapacitated me, I think, was the sudden realization that Seymour is my Davega bicycle. I've been waiting most of my life for even the faintest inclination, let alone the follow-through required, to give away a Davega bicycle. I rush, of course, to explain
When Seymour and I were fifteen and thirteen, we came out of our room one night to listen, I believe, to Stoopnagle and Budd on the radio, and we walked into a great and very ominously hushed commotion in the living room. There were only three people present - our father, our mother, and our brother Waker - but I have a notion there were other, smaller folk eavesdropping from concealed vantage points. Les was rather horribly flushed, Bessie's lips were compressed almost out of existence, and our brother Waker - who was at that instant, according to my figures, almost exactly nine years and fourteen hours old - was standing near the piano, in his pajamas, barefooted, with tears streaming down his face. My own first impulse in a family situation of that sort was to make for the hills, but since Seymour didn't look at all ready to leave, I stuck around, too. Les, with partly suppressed heat, at once laid the case for the prosecution before Seymour. That morning, as we already knew, Waker and Walt had been given matching, beautiful, well-over-the-budget birthday presents - two red-and-white striped, double-barred twenty-six inch bicycles, the very vehicles in the window of Davega's Sports Store, on Eighty-sixth between Lexington and Third, that they'd both been pointedly admiring for the better part of a year. About ten minutes before Seymour and I came out of the bedroom, Les had found out that Waker's bicycle wasn't safely stored in the basement of our apartment building with Walt's. That afternoon, in Central Park, Waker had given his away. An unknown boy ('some shnook he never saw before in his life') had come up to Waker and asked him for his bicycle, and Waker had handed it over. Neither Les nor Bessie, of course, was unmindful of Waker's 'very nice, generous intentions', but both of them also saw the details of the transaction with an implacable logic of their own. What, substantially, they felt that Waker should have done - and Les now repeated this opinion, with great vehemence, for Seymour's benefit - was to give the boy a nice, long ride on the bicycle. Here Waker broke in, sobbing. The boy didn't want a nice, long ride, he wanted the bicycle. He'd never had one, the boy; he'd always wanted one. I looked at Seymour. He was getting excited. He was acquiring a look of well-meaning, but absolute inaptitude for arbitrating, a difficult dispute of this kind - and I knew, from experience, that peace in our living room was about to be restored, however miraculously. ('The sage is full of anxiety and indecision in undertaking anything, and so he is always successful.'- Book XXVI, The Texts of Chuang-tzu.) I won't describe in detail (for once) how Seymour - and there must be a better way of putting this, but I don't know it - competently blundered his way to the heart of the matter so that, a few minutes later, the three belligerents actually kissed and made up. My real point here is a blatantly personal one, and I think I've already stated it.
What Seymour called over to me - or, rather, coached over to me - that evening at curb marbles in 1927 seems to me Contributive and important, and I think I must certainly discuss it a little. Even though, somewhat shocking to say, almost nothing seems more contributive and important in my eyes at this interval than the fact of Seymour's flatulent brother, aged forty, at long last being presented with a Davega bicycle of his own to give away, preferably to the first asker. I find myself wondering, amusing, whether it's quite correct to pass on from one pseudo-metaphysical fine point, however puny or personal, to another, however robust or impersonal. That is, without first lingering, lolling around a bit, in the wordy style to which I'm accustomed. Nonetheless, here goes: When he was coaching me, from the curb-stone across the street, to quit aiming my marble at Ira Yankauer's - and he was ten, please remember - I believe he was instinctively getting at something very close in spirit to the sort of instructions a master archer in Japan will give when he forbids a willful new student to aim his arrows at the target; that is, when the archery master permits, as it were, Aiming but no aiming. I'd much prefer, though, to leave Zen archery and Zen itself out of this pint-size dissertation - partly, no doubt, because Zen is rapidly becoming a rather smutty, cultish word to the discriminating ear, and with great, if superficial, justification. (I say superficial because pure Zen will surely survive its Western champions, who, in the main, appear to confound its near-doctrine of Detachment with an invitation to spiritual indifference, even callousness - and who evidently don't hesitate to knock a Buddha down without first growing a golden fist. Pure Zen, need I add - and I think I do need, at the rate I'm going - will be here even after snobs like me have departed.) Mostly, however, I would prefer not to compare Seymour's marble-shooting advice with Zen archery simply because I am neither a Zen archer nor a Zen Buddhist, much less a Zen adept. (Would it be out of order for me to say that both Seymour's and my roots in Eastern philosophy - if I may hesitantly call them 'roots' - were, are, planted in the New and Old Testaments, Advaita Vedanta, and classical Taoism? I tend to regard myself, if at all by anything as sweet as an Eastern name, as a fourth-class Karma Yogin, with perhaps a little Jnana Yoga thrown in to spice up the pot. I'm profoundly attracted to classical Zen literature, I have the gall to lecture on it and the literature of Mahayana Buddhism one night a week at college, but my life itself couldn't very conceivably be less Zenful than it is, and what little I've been able to apprehend - I pick that verb with care - of the Zen experience has been a by-result of following my own rather natural path of extreme Zenlessness. Largely because Seymour himself literally begged me to do so, and I never knew him to be wrong in these matters.) Happily for me, and probably for everybody, I don't believe it's really necessary to bring Zen into this. The method of marble-shooting that Seymour, by sheer intuition, was recommending to me can be related, I'd say, legitimately and un-Easternly, to the fine art of snapping a cigarette end into a small wastebasket from across a room. An art, I believe, of which most male smokers are true masters only when either they don't care a hoot whether or not the butt goes into the basket or the room has been cleared of eyewitnesses, including, quite so to speak, the cigarette snapper himself. I'm going to try hard not to chew on that illustration, delectable as I find it, but I do think it proper to append - to revert momentarily to curb marbles - that after Seymour himself shot a marble, he would be all smiles when he heard a responsive click of glass striking glass, but it never appeared to be clear to him whose winning click it was. And it's also a fact that someone almost invariably had to pick up the marble he'd won and hand it to him.
Thank God that's over. I can assure you I didn't order it.
I think - I know - this is going to be my last 'physical' notation. Let it be reasonably funny. I'd love to clear the air before I go to bed.
It's an Anecdote, sink me, but I'll let it rip: At about nine, I bad the very pleasant notion that I was the Fastest Boy Runner in the World. It's the kind of queer, basically extracurricular conceit, I'm inclined to add, that dies hard, and even today, at a super-sedentary forty, I can picture myself, in street clothes, whisking past a series of distinguished but hard-breathing Olympic milers and waving to them, amiably, without a trace of condescension. Anyway, one beautiful spring evening when we were still living over on Riverside Drive, Bessie sent me to the drugstore for a couple of quarts of ice cream. I came out of the building at that very same magical quarter hour described just a few paragraphs back. Equally fatal to the construction of this anecdote, I had sneakers on - sneakers surely being to anyone who happens to be the Fastest Boy Runner in the World almost exactly what red shoes were to Hans Christian Andersen's little girl. Once I was clear of the building, I was Mercury himself, and broke into a 'terrific' sprint up the long block to Broadway. I took the corner at Broadway on one wheel and kept going, doing the impossible: increasing speed. The drugstore that sold Louis Sherry ice cream, which was Bessie's adamant choice, was three blocks north, at 113th. About halfway there, I tore past the stationery store where we usually bought our newspapers and magazines, but blindly, without noticing any acquaintances or relatives in the vicinity. Then, about a block further on, I picked up the sound of pursuit at my rear, plainly conducted on foot. My first, perhaps typically New Yorkese thought was that the cops were after me - the charge, conceivably, Breaking Speed Records on a Non-School-Zone Street. I strained to get a little more speed out of my body, but it was no use. I felt a hand clutch out at me and grab hold of my sweater just where the winning-team numerals should have been, and, good and scared, I broke my speed with the awkwardness of a gooney bird coming to a stop. My pursuer was, of course, Seymour, and he was looking pretty damned scared himself. 'What's the matter? What happened?' he asked me frantically. He was still holding on to my sweater. I yanked myself loose from his hand and informed him, in the rather scatological idiom of the neighborhood, which I won't record here verbatim, that nothing had happened, nothing was the matter, that I was just running, for cryin' out loud. His relief was prodigious. 'Boy, did you scare me !' he said. 'Wow, were you moving ! I could hardly catch up with you!' We then went along, at a walk, to the drugstore together. Perhaps strangely, perhaps not strangely at all, the morale of the now Second-Fastest Boy Runner in the World had not been very perceptibly lowered. For one thing, I had been outrun by him. Besides, I was extremely busy noticing that he was panting a lot. It was oddly diverting to see him pant.
I'm finished with this. Or, rather, it's finished with me. Fundamentally, my mind has always balked at any kind of ending. How many stories have I torn up since I was a boy simply because they had what that old Chekhov-baiting noise Somerset Maugham calls a Beginning, a Middle, and an End? Thirty-five? Fifty? One of the thousand reasons I quit going to the theater when I was about twenty was that I resented like hell filing out of the theater just because some playwright was forever slamming down his silly curtain. (What ever became of that stalwart bore Fortinbras? Who eventually fixed his wagon?) Nonetheless, I'm done here. There are one or two more fragmentary physical-type remarks I'd like to make, but I feel too strongly that my time is up. Also, it's twenty to seven, and I have a nine-o'clock class. There's just enough time for a half-hour nap, a shave, and maybe a cool, refreshing blood bath. I have an impulse - more of an old urban reflex than an impulse, thank God - to say something mildly caustic about the twenty-four young ladies, just back from big weekends at Cambridge or Hanover or New Haven, who will be waiting for me in Room 307, but I can't finish writing a description of Seymour - even a bad description, even one where my ego, my perpetual lust to share top billing with him, is all over the place - without being conscious of the good, the real. This is too grand to be said (so I'm just the man to say it), but I can't be my brother's brother for nothing, and I know - not always, but I know - there is no single thing I do that is more important than going into that awful Room 307. There isn't one girl in there, including the Terrible Miss Zabel, who is not as much my sister as Boo Boo or Franny. They may shine with the misinformation of the ages, but they shine. This thought manages to stun me: There's no place I'd really rather go right now than into Room 307. Seymour once said that all we do our whole lives is go from - one little piece of Holy Ground to the next. Is he never wrong?
Just go to bed, now. Quickly. Quickly and slowly.

That's J.D., I don't know why, I really don't, but these words put me in tears. It's as if he's striking me directly on whatever chords they are that run with these emotions. He speaks to me in ways I didn't know could be spoke, and that's why I use strange words like spoke. I am forever affected by J.D., and I have my F-A-C-U-L-T-I-E-S intact. (Inside joke)

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Union des Grands Crus Tasting 2010




The Union des Grands Crus Bordeaux tasting 2010...

Where to begin? First of all, let's realize what's happening here, the clash of traditions, the Bordelaise coming to pour their produce at the Hollywood and Highland center in LA. The immediate culture crunch seems so jarring. These guys have flown thousands of miles to run their produce past the Parkerized hoards. And then we swill it back and make stupid comments. And who are we to comment anyway?
BUT.
We are there to taste, and to evaluate; perhaps, if we will, with a little bit of humility and respect for the hard work, the difficulties, the variations of nature, and man's attempts to work within these conditions. I know, I know, I may be making too big a deal here, but this is delicate ground to tread- I remember, back on the little vineyard I used to work, (And by work, I mostly mean, the usually inside, pouring, and bottle popping variety, but in all fairness, I did spend an entire winter in the vines) And then, after a labor intensive, difficult year of growing, tending, pruning, nuturing, fertilizing, spraying, picking, handling, carrying, punching down, soaking, pressing, barreling, tanking, racking, pumping, fining, filtering, blending, bottling, boxing, and generally cradling, we'd come to know each of these wines as our sibling, every single one of them speaking to us in it's own special way, with it's own peculiar quirks.
And I remember wanting to leap the tasting bar and absolutely throttle anyone who'd quickly and casually dismiss one of our efforts.

So, it's with this spirit, that I want to be careful and respectful. In short, no, I did not particularly care for the 07 vintage, and I was largely dissappointed with many of it's efforts. Even many of my go-to, bell weather wines, really failed to come through. Why?
In short, I don't know. I don't have the experience, ability, or frankly, expertise, to really tell you. Maybe others will come along and speak to you of weather patterns and brix, ph levels and phenolics, I can't do that. What I can do, is make up a story, entirely invented, and apply it unabashedly to the invented reasoning for why I didn't care for the vintage...
In my story, it was an uneven year, with some rain, some sun, a whole lot of just can't figure it out, and then, just when you thought the corner would turn, nope. I did, of course actually check the weather reports on the vintage, and no, I wasn't too far off. It wasn't a "light" year, ala 1997, which frankly, didn't bother me, I thought there were, and still are, some very nice 97's. I'm not afraid of "light" wines. I don't need every wine to be a blockbuster, in fact, I'm tired of blockbusters. But that's where this year was weird, they "seemed" to be mid to full bodied, but somewhere in the middle, they just didn't balance out correctly.
My Notes: Generally angular and tart. Fruit may be there eventually, but it's almost as if it disappeared at the last moment. Kind of a head fake, and no delivery. However, there were some nice wines, certainly. Nothing wowing me, but some well done efforts. And windows getting opened when doors shut, The 2007 Bordeaux whites were AWESOME! Absolutely delicious, crisp, aromatic, really spectacular.
And the 07 Sauternes are really, really nice, especially the Climens which I went back to for 3rds! Possibly the wine of the night!

My favorites:

Rouge:
Chateau La Gaffeliere (Beautiful Nose)
Troplong Mondot
Kirwan
Rauzan Segla
Gruad Larose
Pichon Lalande
Lascombs

Blanc:
Smith Haut Lafite
Pape Clement

Sauternes:
Climens

By and large, I wasn't a fan of the reds but there were many nice ones, the whites were almost great across the board..

Friday, January 22, 2010

Useful for singing Hey Jude..

Finally


They've been trying to catch that guy for years...

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Dope ass pillow cases given to me by my friend Kate.


This lovely pillowcase set, given to me by my friend Kate inspired me to collage together some photos I'd been sitting on.....


Native 9 revisited, or not quite...



After the Pinot Days tasting, I felt I really wanted to open a nice bottle over dinner. I'd made such a big deal about the Pinot Days tasting, and I thought it'd be a good comparison to truly sit with just one bottle and chart it's development. That being said, I think I've realized something, 750ml Bottles are made for just two people. The development of the wine really needs to happen over time, and there needs to be enough juice for that to happen. Maybe Radikon is right, maybe bottles for two should be 1L and for one person, it should be a 500 ml. I think that guy knows what he does... Yet I digress, Ontiveros' Native 9:

I popped a bottle of his '06 Native 9. I wanted to really sit with it over dinner with the girlfriend and see what was what, and chart the results. I'm glad I did. This is a sort of cross training of wine criticism. I just recently bitched about bombing through hundreds of wines, so now I wanted to chart the evolution of just one. As I mentioned, I'm partial to James' Native 9 Pinots, I've only had them on maybe 5 or 6 occasions, but they've always stood out to me, even, when they didn't. Does that make sense? No, of course it doesn't, don't just agree with me, or assume that I know what I'm doing. Especially, because I don't know what I'm doing. I do it first, and THEN I find out. So here's what I did with James' 06 Native 9 Pinot...

First off, it was cold, refridgerator cold, way too cold. BUT, it is what it is. I pulled it out, popped it, let it sit for a few, tasted and sipped it cold, and then went about helping to prep dinner. Pretty basic fare, by the by, Pre-cooked Whole foods Chicken, organic fresh herb salad with some added peppers, celery, tomato, and carrots, with some grated parmesian which was awesome (but No Vinagrette cause it always messes w the vino) some "Barely Buzzed Cheddar" a coffee ground and lavender touched aged cheddar, and a butternut squash soup. Checked in from time to time on the wine as it warmed and opened. And here, ala 750ml blog inspired description, I thought I'd get into it, and really see where this one wine would go...

First impressions:
Brooding and reticent. Seriously. I'm not one to bounce around those bullshit wine terms, but that's what it was. Dark, and unyielding, as if it were a teenager, all clammed up with way too much mascara, and it's your son...

Second Impressions:
It was structured, without being too tannic. Tight, but not held up by it's tannins, just not showing. And then I wrote, not quite forthright, withholding something. AND it was. Kind of like it just wouldn't give up the goods. I'm tempted to do the whole "voluptuous yet chaste" talk, except, that just kinda bores me now, can't we get past the whole chauvenistic crap? It had the stuffing but wasn't displaying. Nice acidity, but seemed almost piled up on itself, as if it couldn't quite get everything in order. I kinda felt that I liked it, but it wasn't my favorite of his wines. At least of the few I've tasted. Nice, but not lovely. Tasty and in order, but not the wow I'd come to expect. Maybe just a lesser vintage. My least favorite of 04, 08, and now 06.

Third impressions: Each new pour was a step back. It'd expand and get more complex in the glass, and then with each new pour from the bottle, it'd go back to that petulant teenager. Almost infuriating, if it didn't serve it purpose to show the progression. Maybe it was true that I was biased and just making excuses because I liked the wine in the past and expected more. Cause it's true, I know it, when I like a producer, I see past what is, and extrapolate what isn't. I found I liked the balance, but I still found it too dark. Just a vertical tough guy, not the complexity or grace I'd found in other vintages. It was still rounding out, maybe it'd be something better in 2+ years...

Fourth Impressions: Now, after 45 minutes to an hour, it seemed to go in a whole new direction, but it wasn't a new direction, and that's the whole point, it began that magical unfolding, like a strange oragami pop up book that twisted and innergalaxied into a whole new prospect. Now, a new question. Can I use the term, Burgundian? I hate that. I hate using Burgundian for non-Burgundy the way I hate it when I see New York Deli or Brooklyn Pizza out here in California, cause you know what? It's just NOT! Never is. In fact, the best guarantee you can have when you see New York Deli, is that it's not a self-respecting joint. But here's the thing though, there WAS something Burgundian about it as it developed, something of rose petals, and cellars, taking time, and proper development. Something about truth and grace. I'll be damned if you couldn't fool a couple of Burgundy lovers into believing it was a five year old Vosne Rominee...

Last looks...
I loved the big tasting, I really did, and all the many wines to experience, but there's something wonderful about taking the time to sit with just one really beautiful bottle and charting it's progression. If it's the right bottle an you can be there to experience it as it opens up, it offers a whole new perspective. And the Native 9 is a great bottle to do it with...

Monday, January 18, 2010

Pinot Days


It seems harder and harder these days to comment on the tastings I go to, especially these HUGE ones. Pinot Days, the latest, took place in an airport hangar out in Santa Monica. The list of participating wineries was enormous. How the hell could I even begin to comment on all these wines, let alone take tasting notes? I was there tasting for five hours!

Alana Estate
Arcadian Winery
Archery Summit
August West
Baxter Winery
Bazaar Boutique
Belle Glos Wines
Belle Pente Vineyard & Winery
Benovia Winery
Big Table Farm
Bjornstad Cellars
Bouchaine Vineyards
Buena Vista Carneros
C.Donatiello Winery
Cargasacchi Vineyard
Carr Vineyards & Winery
Cima Collina
Clos Pepe Vineyards
Clouds Rest Vineyards, LLC
Coho Wines
DeLoach Vineyards
Demetria Estate
Derbes Wines
Derby Wine Estates
domaine chandon
Domaine Serene
Donum Estate/Robert Stemmler
Dutton-Goldfield Winery
Etude Vineyards & Winery
Evening Land Vineyards
Fess Parker Winery
Flying Goat Cellars
Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery
gainey vineyard
Gary Farrell Winery
George Wine Company
Hahn Family Wines
Halleck Vineyard
Handley Cellars
Hirsch Vineyard and Winery
Hitching Post Wines
Ideal 55
Inception Wines
Inman Family Wines
J Vineyards & Winery
Keller Estate
Ken Brown Wines
Kendric Vineyards
Ketcham Estate
La Fenetre
La Rochelle Winery
Lachini Vineyards
Landmark Vineyards
Londer Vineyards
MacMurray Ranch
MacPhail Family Wines
MacRostie Winery
Mahoney Vineyards
McIntyre vineyards
Melville
Merry Edwards Wines
Morgan Winery
Native9 Wine
Olson Ogden Wines
Pali Wine Company
Papapietro Perry Winery
Paraiso Vineyards
Paul Mathew Vineyards
Pfendler Vineyards
Pillow Rd. Vineyard
Pisoni Vineyard & Winery
Prodigal Wines
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery
Robert Talbott Vineyards
San Francisco Wine Association
Sand Hill Wines - Durell Vineyard
Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans
Scherrer Winery
Sequana Vineyards
Shandel's Oppenlander Vineyard
Small Vines Wines
Sojourn Cellars
Spell Estate
Stephen Ross Wine Cellars
Suacci Carciere Wines
Talisman Cellars
Talley Vineyards
Tantara Winery
Test Winery
Testarossa Vineyards
Thorne Wine
Three Sticks
TR Elliott
Veramonte
WesMar Winery
Willamette Valley Vineyards
WINDY OAKS ESTATE
Woodenhead
Zotovich Family Vineyards

At around 100 wineries, with an average of 5 wines a table, we're talking 500 wines. This isn't a complaint, mind you, just an appeal for sanity. How can anyone really taste that many wines, much less have concise, and fair notes? Makes you wonder about scores and official reviews... The best I could really do is offer up a short list, and some over all impressions.

07 pinots out of Santa Barbara are beautiful. we all know that, but what's interesting is the seem to be locking up a bit. Not overly tannic, but perhaps a bit hidden. I think this is a good sign, it means these are wines for the mid to long haul (as long as that really is for Cali Pinot anyway) but these should have some life ahead of them and are not mere flashes in the pan. The 08's in general are not as impressive by a long shot. Everyone seemed to be putting their best smile on, and they were far from a disaster, but many were hit by frost, and I've heard from a few producers that even their 09 crop was affected by the damage from 08. I've been saying it for awhile, and I continue to believe it, if you're a collector and you're actually still buying wines, pick up your 07 Cali Pinots.

So, onto my short list:

My three favorites:
Wesmar, Native 9, Ken Brown.
All solid producers, and I've been fans of their juice for awhile. Wesmar, and the Balletto vineyard in particular, always offers up a beautiful strawberry and bing cherry lightness that's almost irreverent when dealing with a room full of Big Overdone Cali Pinots, and more importantly, it pulls it off. Lovely juice.
James Ontiveros' Native 9 is always a favorite of mine. He was pouring his 08. There's a complexity and depth to James' wine that I just love. Even as I tasted it, I admitted to myself that maybe, and even likely, it wouldn't be the favorite in the room. Didn't offer up all it's beauty all at once, but it still had that something special going for it that keeps me coming back. A tough call because I know my personal bias led me towards it, but I don't care, still made my top three.
Ken Brown... well it's Ken Brown, always awesome, in fact I've never had anything less than greatness from any of his wines, his 08's are solid and his 07, awesome.

Then onto honorable mention:
Arcadian Winery
August West
Belle Glos Wines
Bjornstad Cellars
Cargasacchi Vineyard
Clos Pepe Vineyards
(Wes Hagen at Clos Pepe gets special mention as he also poured his 01 VS Pinot which was Stellar! His wines are some of the longest lasting, most collectable of the evening)
Domaine Serene
La Fenetre
MacPhail Family Wines
Melville
Merry Edwards Wines
Paraiso Vineyards
Pisoni Vineyard & Winery
Prodigal Wines
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery
Suacci Carciere Wines
Talisman Cellars
Zotovich Family Vineyards

And these are just of the wines I tasted, many were missed. What really stood out was the overall quality, not a stinker in the bunch, really and truely not one wine I didn't like. Actually, that's not true, wine exchange was pouring four wines and they had an Argentinian Pinot I didn't care for. Other than that though, an amazing collection of fantastic wines...