Native 9 revisited, or not quite...

After the Pinot Days tasting, I felt I really wanted to open a nice bottle over dinner. I'd made such a big deal about the Pinot Days tasting, and I thought it'd be a good comparison to truly sit with just one bottle and chart it's development. That being said, I think I've realized something, 750ml Bottles are made for just two people. The development of the wine really needs to happen over time, and there needs to be enough juice for that to happen. Maybe Radikon is right, maybe bottles for two should be 1L and for one person, it should be a 500 ml. I think that guy knows what he does... Yet I digress, Ontiveros' Native 9:

I popped a bottle of his '06 Native 9. I wanted to really sit with it over dinner with the girlfriend and see what was what, and chart the results. I'm glad I did. This is a sort of cross training of wine criticism. I just recently bitched about bombing through hundreds of wines, so now I wanted to chart the evolution of just one. As I mentioned, I'm partial to James' Native 9 Pinots, I've only had them on maybe 5 or 6 occasions, but they've always stood out to me, even, when they didn't. Does that make sense? No, of course it doesn't, don't just agree with me, or assume that I know what I'm doing. Especially, because I don't know what I'm doing. I do it first, and THEN I find out. So here's what I did with James' 06 Native 9 Pinot...

First off, it was cold, refridgerator cold, way too cold. BUT, it is what it is. I pulled it out, popped it, let it sit for a few, tasted and sipped it cold, and then went about helping to prep dinner. Pretty basic fare, by the by, Pre-cooked Whole foods Chicken, organic fresh herb salad with some added peppers, celery, tomato, and carrots, with some grated parmesian which was awesome (but No Vinagrette cause it always messes w the vino) some "Barely Buzzed Cheddar" a coffee ground and lavender touched aged cheddar, and a butternut squash soup. Checked in from time to time on the wine as it warmed and opened. And here, ala 750ml blog inspired description, I thought I'd get into it, and really see where this one wine would go...

First impressions:
Brooding and reticent. Seriously. I'm not one to bounce around those bullshit wine terms, but that's what it was. Dark, and unyielding, as if it were a teenager, all clammed up with way too much mascara, and it's your son...

Second Impressions:
It was structured, without being too tannic. Tight, but not held up by it's tannins, just not showing. And then I wrote, not quite forthright, withholding something. AND it was. Kind of like it just wouldn't give up the goods. I'm tempted to do the whole "voluptuous yet chaste" talk, except, that just kinda bores me now, can't we get past the whole chauvenistic crap? It had the stuffing but wasn't displaying. Nice acidity, but seemed almost piled up on itself, as if it couldn't quite get everything in order. I kinda felt that I liked it, but it wasn't my favorite of his wines. At least of the few I've tasted. Nice, but not lovely. Tasty and in order, but not the wow I'd come to expect. Maybe just a lesser vintage. My least favorite of 04, 08, and now 06.

Third impressions: Each new pour was a step back. It'd expand and get more complex in the glass, and then with each new pour from the bottle, it'd go back to that petulant teenager. Almost infuriating, if it didn't serve it purpose to show the progression. Maybe it was true that I was biased and just making excuses because I liked the wine in the past and expected more. Cause it's true, I know it, when I like a producer, I see past what is, and extrapolate what isn't. I found I liked the balance, but I still found it too dark. Just a vertical tough guy, not the complexity or grace I'd found in other vintages. It was still rounding out, maybe it'd be something better in 2+ years...

Fourth Impressions: Now, after 45 minutes to an hour, it seemed to go in a whole new direction, but it wasn't a new direction, and that's the whole point, it began that magical unfolding, like a strange oragami pop up book that twisted and innergalaxied into a whole new prospect. Now, a new question. Can I use the term, Burgundian? I hate that. I hate using Burgundian for non-Burgundy the way I hate it when I see New York Deli or Brooklyn Pizza out here in California, cause you know what? It's just NOT! Never is. In fact, the best guarantee you can have when you see New York Deli, is that it's not a self-respecting joint. But here's the thing though, there WAS something Burgundian about it as it developed, something of rose petals, and cellars, taking time, and proper development. Something about truth and grace. I'll be damned if you couldn't fool a couple of Burgundy lovers into believing it was a five year old Vosne Rominee...

Last looks...
I loved the big tasting, I really did, and all the many wines to experience, but there's something wonderful about taking the time to sit with just one really beautiful bottle and charting it's progression. If it's the right bottle an you can be there to experience it as it opens up, it offers a whole new perspective. And the Native 9 is a great bottle to do it with...